Over the past 40 years, if something needed to be both lightweight and strong, chances are it would have been made of carbon fibre. The items in question also tended to go fast – from Formula 1 cars to racing bikes and high- performance sailboats. Naturally, the watch industry wasn’t far behind.
For a good while, carbon fibre – or carbon-fibre- reinforced polymer, as it should properly be known – was prohibitively expensive and too fiddly to be meaningfully deployed in watches, its presence instead limited to glossy chequerboard dials and bezels. This offered a superficial nod to the world of motorsport, in much the same way as the carbon weave on the outer edges of a Lamborghini.
Thankfully, things evolved. Audemars Piguet was the first brand to use forged carbon polymer in a watch case with its 2007 Royal Oak Offshore chronograph, which commemorated the brand’s then partnership with America’s Cup team Alinghi. This manufacturing process did away with the perpendicular weave, introducing a sort of spectral camouflage that was pressed into place, making each piece unique.
In the intervening decade and a half, with patents lapsed, the material has gained traction among watchmakers keen to connect with high-octane pursuits – and, more recently, with anyone looking for a characterful alternative to steel or gold. Lightweighting has become an end goal in itself for brands, with titanium and ceramic also surging in popularity over the past decade. Today, the material is still found on watches of all styles and sizes, and it no longer commands the eye-watering price tag it once did. We’ve rounded up six of the most interesting to launch in the past few months.
Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT Night Mission
At 44mm, the Avenger isn’t making the most determined bid for lightness. Here, carbon comes into its own as an aesthetic choice, providing the swirling texture for the watch’s dial, reminiscent of a dark, cloudy night.
£5,500
Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono
The ‘FXD’ is short for ‘fixed’, and refers to the one-piece case construction that means a strap won’t break free under duress. Designed for special forces, it’s also handy for cyclists, as this 43mm carbon-cased, chronometer- certified chronograph, designed for Fabian Cancellara’s pro racing team, attests.
£4,560
Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
Produced as part of the brand’s sponsorship of the round-the-world yacht race, this watch is Ulysse Nardin’s most sustainable, thanks in part to the use of carbonium – a polymer made by a start-up that recycles aerospace industry waste.
£12,540
Doxa Sub 300 Carbon
Normally a faithful revival of a 1960s dive watch template, Doxa’s Sub 300 takes on a more modern persona with a forged carbon case around a titanium inner section. The addition of a green sunray-style dial and matching strap brings in something of an alien mood.
£3,540
Norqain Wild One Skeleton
Norqain has its sights set on the adventure- sport market, as well as marathon runners, and leans into the physical attributes of its carbon fibre polymer, which it says is six times lighter than steel. Gone are the smoky wisps of forged carbon in favour of a gritty, matte grey finish.
£4,550
Tissot PRX
The PRX – a generically late-70s design with a sloping-sided case and all manner of brightly coloured dials – has been Tissot’s runaway hit of the past few years. Now, it has upended the formula, replacing the faceted steel case and bracelet with rubber and forged carbon to create the range’s evil twin.
£960
